BLOG 4: West Sporades – 30 May to 19 June 2018

In May we conducted an initial overview and recce of the West Sporades islands (also called the Northern Sporades for some unknown reason).  This was towards the end of Max and Sue Walker’s cruise with us from Nisos (N) Leros in the Dodecanese, via the East Sporades, to N. Skiathos in the West Sporades.  From Skiathos airport they caught a direct flight to Manchester. 

 

Route taken with Max and Sue Walker from Leros to Skiathos

N. SKOPELOS

Following their departure, we returned to and based ourselves in Skopelos town port for ten days.  During that time Helen continued her physio treatment every other day on the trapped nerve in her neck.  In between treatments, and subsequently, she has religiously followed a course of exercises recommended by her physio and has improved significantly. 

Helen exercising her neck!

While in Skopelos we caught up with our admin, and repairs and maintenance on the boat. 

          Washday on the quay – cruiser style

We also socialised seriously with our friends Rolf and Roz, before they left to cruise the Gulf of Volos to the north of the Evia channel – which we are planning to transit next. 

Rolf and Roz leaving Skopelos quay on R&R – their Moody 42 – prior to being struck by lightning in Volos!

Their yacht took a direct lightning strike while anchored in the Gulf, resulting in almost complete destruction of the electrics and electronics on board. Fortunately they were not harmed and their insurers have responded quickly and positively.  They are now therefore motoring south (with a professional skipper and diver on board) to Athens, where repairs will be carried out.

N. SKIATHOS

We returned to Skiathos town port to rendezvous with Peter Coy who was coming to sail with us on our more detailed exploration of the West Sporades. 

Before anchoring that night, Mike went ashore to collect our new No 1 genoa which (following the demise of our 20-year-old sail) had been sent out by Crusader Sails to Café Fresh on the main quay since the couriers had demanded a post-coded address and would not deliver directly to a yacht. 

Our new No 1 genoa made by Crusader Sails

We stayed overnight in the harbour anchorage just outside the flight path to the airport and therefore had a ‘very close’ view of Peter’s plane arriving!

Aegean Air’s plane from Athens with Peter Coy on board

Peter was Chairman of the Countess Owners’ Association for some ten years during the period of our initial membership.  Unlike us, he built his own Countess from scratch over a period of six years and is therefore very knowledgeable thereon.  He is a self-employed consultant specialising in Change Management. 

Peter Coy

Flying the Countess Flag!

Over breakfast at anchor we discussed the basic facts relating to the West Sporades before agreeing on an outline plan for our forthcoming cruise. In particular, we decided to concentrate on the northern islands of the West Sporades group and not try to visit either Skyros or Evia. 

Breakfast in the cockpit

WEST SPORADES OVERVIEW

  West Sporades Islands

The four principal islands of the West Sporades (Skiathos and Skopelos in particular and to a lesser extent Alonnisos and Skyros), unlike the East Sporades, are very much on the tourist track. 

The rocky islets to the north and east, which form the National Maritime Park, are uninhabited and access is either restricted or prohibited. The northern islands of the West Sporades are in fact an extension of the Greek mainland’s Pelion peninsula and were once joined to it.

N. Skyros, some 35 miles to the southeast of the main chain, while geographically included in the West Sporades, is more related historically, culturally and economically to N. Evia to its west. 

Route of our cruise with Peter Coy 

 of the northern West Sporades islands

N. SKIATHOS (cont)

Chart of N. Skiathos

N. Skiathos, referred to by some as ‘The Greek Riviera’, is blessed with some of the Aegean’s most beautiful beaches. It is little wonder, therefore, given an international airport and good ferry services, that in July and August the island fills up with sun-starved Northern Europeans.

From 1538 to 1830 the inhabitants moved to an almost inaccessible rocky spur at the north end of the island. The Kastro, as it was called, was connected to the island by a drawbridge that could be raised in times of siege. Today, most of the population lives in Skiathos town.  

Ormos Koukounaries

After Peter had unpacked (and changed into shorts and T-shirt!) we left for Ormos (O) Koukounaries, which claims to be one of the most attractive beaches in Greece. 

Overview of O. Koukounaries

Like many good beaches in the Mediterranean, however, it is covered with rows of parasols and sun loungers belonging to the adjacent tavernas and hotels – which somewhat detract from its natural beauty.

Parasols and sun loungers dominating the beach

As we were concerned that the anchor had not properly dug in, Peter (as an experienced diver) swam over to check it out.  Since he advised that it was not holding well, we re-anchored elsewhere in sand and eel grass that provided better holding than the rocky seabed in our original position.

Peter checking the anchor

Since Peter was obviously not as acclimatised to the Greek sun as we are, and it was VERY hot, we put up our canvas cockpit awning to keep us all cool.  

Part of our canvas awning

Rolf and Roz had warned us about mosquitoes that emanate from the lagoon behind the beach. Therefore we put up hatch nets and window screens in good time before dusk before thoroughly spraying the inside of the boat with the Greek equivalent of ‘Raid’.  Following a bug-free night, this ritual has become part of our evening routine.

Mosquito deterrents

 

N. SKOPELOS (cont)

N. Skopelos is larger and more rugged than Skiathos and its concessions to tourism are lower key and in better taste, despite a boom in recent years fuelled by the filming there of part of Mama Mia.  Much of the countryside, especially on the southwest coast, is as spectacular as it appears in the film, with a series of pretty cove beaches backed by extensive pine forests, olive groves and orchards of plums.  Skopelos and Glossa, the island’s two main towns, are among the prettiest in the Sporades.

In 1538 Barbarossa slaughtered the entire population of the island, so presumably the present inhabitants are ‘immigrants’ who arrived in the late sixteenth century. 

Chart of principal locations on N. Skopelos

Loutraki

From O. Koukounaries we returned east along the south coast of N. Skiathos before crossing to Loutraki on the northwest coast of N. Skopelos.  There we anchor-moored on the visitors’ seasonal pontoon, where it proved a little difficult to get off and on the boat!

Abseiling down the gangplank!

Loutraki has grown into a modest tourist resort and visitors from Skiathos who come to enjoy the splendid beaches to the southeast of the harbour now invade the once sleepy village every day and the very attractive village of Glossa perched on the hill above. 

Loutraki harbour showing ID  

anchor-moored on visitors’ pontoon

We were told that Taverna Agnanti in Glossa has a stunning view and serves food ‘to die for’.   Mike walked the steep three kilometres up to the town and nearly died when he saw the taverna’s prices!

Magnificent view from Taverna Agnanti in Glossa

We made full use of the pontoon facilities to take down and fold up our No 2 genoa before putting on our new No 1.

Folding up our No 2 genoa on the pontoon

Bending on our new No 1 genoa

Skopelos Port

On our way to Skopelos port, we went round the north tip of the island in order to nudge into the anchorage at Ag Ioannis, at the base of the rock on which perches the chapel made famous by the wedding scene in the film Mama Mia.

Ag Ioannis, on which the Mama Mia chapel perches

En route to Skopelos port we trailed our aft anchor tape to cleanse it of the mud that had accumulated on it.

Trailing the anchor tape to clean it

We had already visited Skopelos port with Max and Sue (see Blog 3) and again on our own (see above) during Helen’s physio treatment. The houses and churches of the town are piled up one upon another around a rock amphitheatre above the harbour. They are jammed together along long curving alleys which restrict access to all but donkeys, pedestrians and the occasional suicidal motorcyclist.  It is a delightfully attractive place that has altered little despite the growing number of tourists. 

Skopelos town viewed from visitors’ quay

 Skopelos harbour from top of the town

The tavernas on the waterfront are plentiful, cheap and serve good quality food.  We continued to support them with enthusiasm.

Peter enjoying his first souvlaki (of many) with his daily ‘Fix’

N. PERISTERI

Chart showing N.Alonnisos and N. Peristeri

O. Xero

By way of a change, we next stopped at O. Xero on the uninhabited island of Peristeri.  There we anchored in solitary splendour for the night, swam and explored ashore. 

O. Xero from surrounding hillside

Beach seen from ID at anchor

It felt very much as if we were on our own ‘desert island’, hence we felt responsible for cleaning up the flotsam and jetsam that had accumulated on the beach.

Helen cleaning up the beach

As swinging room in the bay was limited we took the precaution of setting two anchors to make certain that we did not drag overnight on to the nearby rocks.

N. ALONNISOS

N. Alonnisos is the largest and only permanently inhabited member of the island group’s Marine Reserve at the northeast end of the archipelago.  It is more rugged and wilder than its southern neighbours but no less green: pine forests, olive groves and orchards cover the southern half, while a dense maquis of shrubs cloaks the north.   The island is more up-market than either Skiathos or Skopelos and attracts fewer visitors.

O. Tzorti

During our cruise south with Max and Sue, we had stayed overnight at a very pleasant isolated anchorage in the bay at O. Tzorti on the island of Alonnisos.  We also visited it with Peter.

Anchored in O. Tzorti

Steni Vala

This time, on our trip north, we anchor-moored bows-to in the shallow waters off the quay in Steni Vala, a small village in a cove opposite the south end of N. Peristeri. 

ID anchor-moored in Steni Vala

We stayed anchor-moored on the quay for two nights, since the northerly wind had increased to the top end of a Force 6, limiting our ability to continue north.   Coincidentally, our marine toilet ceased to function that morning and we therefore spent our day off repairing it. 

While we did so, Peter rewired our second-hand replacement Autopilot controller.

The perished toilet diaphragm,  

the cause of the problem with our marine loo

Luckily it was World Gin Day (!) and we therefore felt it was an appropriate way to celebrate repairing the loo before going out for supper.

World Gin Day!

Supper at one of Steni Vala’s excellent tavernas

 

O. Votsi

Since the adverse northerly winds were forecast to continue for most of the following day, we decided to simply sail south to O. Votsi and test out the new genoa. 

Testing out our new No 1 genoa

We felt the need to wear harnesses  

in the strong northerly wind

Votsi is a small harbour with excellent all-round shelter favoured by local fishermen who have taken over the 3.5 million Euro quay financed by the EU for visiting yachts. In consequence there is no room on the quay for yachts and there is only limited room in the harbour in which to swing at anchor.  Nevertheless, Votsi is very attractive and we were finally able to anchor safely by taking an aft line to the shore. 

ID at anchor with a shore line in Votsi harbour

N. KIRA PANAYIA

N. Kira Panayia lies north of N. Alonnisos and is a major part of the Marine Reserve.  The Reserve primarily exists to protect the Mediterranean Monk Seal. 

A relaxed Monk Seal

The island is deserted, except for a large herd of goats, a herd of cows, some horses and a big black bull!  A number of Byzantine wrecks have been discovered off the coast.

Chart of N. Kira Panayia

O. Planitis

As soon as the northerly wind dropped, we left Votsi and headed for O. Planitis, an outstanding anchorage at the north of N. Kira Panayia. 

Chart plotter view of ID in O. Planitis

The large double bay has a very narrow entrance (82m wide). With a strong northerly wind (which it wasn’t) a considerable sea piles up.  It is said to be a very frightening experience being pushed by the wind and sea towards that entrance.  Conversely, it is impossible to get out until the weather improves.  Inside the bay, regardless of the conditions outside, the water is always calm.

Narrow entrance to O. Planitis

ID anchored in the all-round shelter of O. Planitis

In the morning, the water was like a mirror.

Reflections in the mirror surface of the anchorage

In order to look around the extensive anchorage, we put the outboard on the dinghy and also went ashore.

47        Fitting our heavy outboard on the dinghy

Planing on our RIB in O. Planitis

N. ALONNISOS (cont)

Patitíri

On our way back south from N. Kira Panayia we stopped in Patitíri, some three miles south of Votsi.  There we anchor-moored on the northern quay.

ID anchor-moored on Patitíri visitors' quay

As has often happened on other islands, when the capital moves from the hill above to the harbour below, the capital of N. Alonnisos has moved down to Patitíri.  Surrounded by cliffs to the south and pine-clad slopes behind, it is inevitably attracting a growing number of tourists. Currently, however, it remains a very pleasant location.

Next morning we were awoken early by the sound of aircraft flying low and repeatedly above the harbour.   A pall of smoke indicated that there was clearly a serious forest fire in the hills behind the town.   For the next 24 hours fire-fighting seaplanes and helicopters collected and dumped water on the flames that were threatening both the forest and a significant number of houses and hotels.

Fire-fighting aircraft

N. SKOPELOS (cont)

On our way back to Skiathos via Nea Klima on the west coast of N. Skopelos, we watched the fire-fighting aircraft operating and could see the serious damage that the fire had already wrought.

Nea Klima

The charming village Nea Klima on the west coast of N. Skopelos survives on modest summer tourism.  

Eating out in Taverna Oasis in Nea Klima

From a cruiser’s viewpoint, Nea Klima has a very well-protected quay with two excellent sandy beaches with crystal clear water adjacent thereto.

Nea Klima harbour

Beach at Nea Klima

Mike’s (poor) impersonation of 007 coming out of the sea

N. SKIATHOS

We had an excellent broad reach from Nea Klima to Skiathos harbour, when we were able to demonstrate to Peter both our Hydrovane and towed generator – neither of which incidentally are particularly suited to inter-island sailing on a daily basis.

Hyrdovane and towed generator in action

Skiathos Harbour

In Skiathos we again anchored in the harbour to the north of quay, on which there was as usual no room.   After a pleasant evening, we were approached by two officious Port Police in a RIB who insisted that we moved immediately or be fined, since we ‘were not allowed to anchor in the harbour’ – even though a number of other boats were already anchored there and were not moved on.  (On reflection, we might have been just a little bit too close to the flight path!)  Given that there appeared to still be no room on the quay, we simply waited around until it got fully dark before re-anchoring in the harbour among the other boats there and hoping for the best.

Skiathos town quay seen from the harbour

During the night there was a tremendous thunderstorm with amazing lightning.  Had we not already learned of Rolf and Roz’s strike, we might even have enjoyed the spectacle.

We got up at 4 a.m. and Mike rowed Peter ashore in the pouring rain to the quay where he caught a taxi to the airport for his early flight back to London via Athens. 

When it does rain in Greece, it rains!

Later, at dawn, we quickly upped anchor when we saw a vacant berth on the quay and got there before another yacht at anchor beat us to it.  

ID on the quay in Skiathos port

Very soon after we began moving, the Port Police arrived and forced those still asleep and at anchor to move as they were clearly all in the turning path of a very large Hellenic Seaways ferry.

Hellenic Seaways ferry

Skiathos harbour is renowned, particularly at the weekends, for being overcrowded and therefore difficult to get into.  This situation is not helped by charter and trip boat owners ‘bagging’ spaces on the EU-funded visitors’ quay.  In consequence, chaos seems to permanently reign.  What it is like in the high season of July and August, we dread to think. 

Over-use of electricity from this battered electric tower  

 is just one example of local incompetence

We were delayed leaving Skiathos for a couple of days due to severe thunderstorms that affected the area.  Given Rolf and Roz’s experience with a lightning strike, we decided that ‘standing out’ from the crowd by sailing alone in such conditions wasn’t wise, so we got on with some admin and maintenance tasks, which are a continual requirement on a cruising boat.

Helen repairing a tear in the mainsail 

  – (only 4 hours by hand…)

It wasn’t all hard work…

There was no getting away from the World Cup…

GOING FORWARD

We are currently sorting out a few issues before starting to head south back to Agmar boatyard in Leros,via the Evia Channel and the North Cyclades Islands, in order to have time to decommission ID before flying back to the UK on 11 July.