BLOG 7: Alexandroupolis to Limenaria – 7 to 18 October 2018

Having sailed from LEROS to the island of SAMOTHRAKI and then to the port of Alexandroupolis on the north coast of Greece [Blog 6], we motor-sailed west from Alexandroupolis for 50 miles along the regional coast of Thracia to Porto Lagos. 

Chart of area covered to date and in this Blog

The Thracian coastal region is comprised of a variation of low-lying plains, woodlands and wetlands with mountains to their north. Four major rivers, and many minor ones, deposit large amounts of water from the mountains into the wetlands, countryside and the sea.  The coastal plains, therefore, are well watered and fertile, producing large crops of grain, cotton, tobacco, vegetables and fruit.

Porto Lagos

Porto Lagos (‘the port of the lagoon’) lies in the northeast corner of the very large bay of Vistonida.  The port and town are themselves located in a natural, very well-sheltered lagoon connected to the sea by a 6-metre-deep dredged channel with long retaining walls at its entrance into the bay.  Lakes, lagoons and wetlands surround the town and port.

Google Earth view of Porto Lagos

Shallow-water mussel farms (where hundred of buoys are linked by ropes on which the mussels grow) line the eastern shore of the bay.  

Shallow-water mussel farm outside Porto Lagos

Lake Vistonida to the immediate north of the town is one of the largest lakes in northern Greece.  Uniquely, the brackish water of the lake is fed alternately (depending on the season) from the mountain rivers to its north and from the sea through channels around Lagos to the south.

Channel through Porto Lagos leading into Lake Vistonida

Lagos was once an important port for the shipment of grain, cotton and other products from the hinterland.

Today, the old town looks run down and its enormous port and quay are completely empty of shipping and associated port equipment.  Conversely, small attractive holiday homes exist outside the old town although the majority are closed up this late in the season.

Empty dock wall and lagoon at Porto Lagos

The port does, however, still have a small active inshore fishing fleet.   Larger visiting trawlers also use the port to land their catches, which are promptly whisked away in smart refrigerated lorries to the cities.

Small local fishing fleet

The lagoon still has a small boatyard with a good travel lift, crane and pontoons.  It seemed busy with local boats but there were only a few ‘cruising boats’ in the yard.

Porto Lagos boatyard

We went specifically to Porto Lagos because it is at the centre of the enormous 100k-hectare East Macedonia and Thrace National Park and was said to have an excellent information centre.  The Park extends east from the city of Kavala in Greek Macedonia, some 80 miles along the Macedonian and Thracian coast. 

The park embraces deltas, lakes, lagoons and wetlands together with surrounding countryside.  It is now protected by both national and European legislation.

Thanks to the excellent briefing and advice we received from Sasa, a guide at the Information Centre, we gained a good overview of what the Park had to offer.  Even the very small part we saw was impressive.  

• A veritable mosaic of plant species exists in the park, including dune and tidal vegetation, reed beds, salt cedar scrubland, sea-rush meadows and aquatic vegetation.

• Birds from 277 different species have been observed nesting, overwintering or simply passing through.  While Mike was once a twitcher (of sorts) he had never come across many of the species and was particularly impressed by the existence in the park of the red heron, black-winged stilt, little bittern, Eurasian spoonbill, as well as the pygmy cormorant, ferringous duck, greater white-fronted goose, black stork and bearded reedling – to mention just a few of those Mike has never seen!  

• Finally, of the twenty mammal species that inhabit the area, the European otter, golden jackal and European wildcat are especially interesting.  (We did see an otter!)

Needless to say that, during our 3-day stay, we saw only a VERY small portion of what the Park had to offer. It was enough however to whet our appetite and to make us at least consider having a walking or cycling holiday one day in the area.  Both are popular and well catered for in the region.

John (and Nicola) Morrow in their camper-van, with bikes, were exploring the Park

THASSOS – Limenas

Our sail from Porto Lagos to THASSOS was brisk and downwind.  We arrived in Limenas (also known as Thassos) port on the north coast of the island of the same name (THASSOS).

Approaching the island of THASSOS

On passage we passed the mouth of the River Nestos – the boundary between the regions of Thrace to the east and East Macedonia to the west.   

Delta of the River Nestos

At this stage it is worth mentioning (because we’d never understood ourselves what was going on) that ‘old’ Macedonia was split in 1912 after the Balkan Wars between Greece and Yugoslavia.  In 1991 Yugoslavian Macedonia seceded from Yugoslavia and declared itself an independent country under the name of the Former Yugoslavia Republic of Macedonia (FYROM).   For the last 30 years this has been an issue between Greece and the FYROM, since Greece was concerned that it would affect Greek Macedonian territory and people. Recently an agreement appears to have been reached whereby the FYROM is to be renamed ‘North Macedonia’ and Greece will cease objecting to the country becoming part of the EU.

THASSOS is the most northern and greenest island in Greece.  It is only 10 miles off the mainland, being separated therefrom by the shallow Strait of Thasou.  It is also said to have the best annual all-round climate of any Greek island.

The island of THASSOS

In ancient times the island enjoyed a certain power and prosperity as a consequence of its defensible position, large natural harbour, mineral wealth (gold!) and unlimited supplies of marble.  

One of the marble quarries on THASSOS

Today the island’s prosperity is based on its enchanting natural beauty, sandy beaches, excellent weather and archaeological sites.

The modern town of Limenas has been built on the site of the ancient capital of Thassos.  When one wanders around the town, one experiences an architectural potpourri of old and new.  

Limenas, situated in a large bay, possesses two excellent all-weather harbours.  We heard that they were full of boats seeking refuge during the recent Medicane.

Looking east over the two harbours of Limenas

We moored in what was the naval harbour to the east together with other visiting yachts.  To be honest, it was concrete and soulless but it served our purpose and was close to the centre of town.  

ID on the quay at Limenas

The older harbour to the west of the town, which accommodates the local fishing fleet, is more pleasant, colourful and has local character.

Old fishing harbour of Limenas

Nearby is an excellent Archaeological Museum.  In the reception hall one is immediately confronted by the museum’s principal exhibit – an imposing 4-metre-tall statue of a man carrying a ram.  It was found in 1896  buried at the Acropolis on the hill overlooking the port.  The black and white photographs of its discovery and excavation are almost as interesting as the statue itself.

4-metre-tall statue of man carrying a ram

Nearby, carved marble steps ascend to an ancient amphitheatre, which has been renovated and holds performances during the island’s Summer Festival of ancient Greek drama and comedy.   It commands a dramatic view over the town and harbour.

Garish postcard of the Ancient (renovated) Amphitheatre of Thassos (our photo didn’t come out properly)

We hired a car (rather than a scooter - it was a 100-km circuit!) to explore the island.   There is a good coastal road with occasional spurs leading inland to mountain villages and many more leading down to the coast’s small ports, villages, beaches and sundry holiday accommodation.

Megalo Kasiviti – an attractive mountain village

THASSOS is very mountainous, rising to 1200 metres at the summit of Mt Ypsarion.   Comprised of two thirds marble, the island is heavily wooded, with coastal plains on its west and part of its south coast. The rest of the island is primarily comprised of sea cliffs and bays.  

The west and south coasts have accommodated package holidaymakers for many years and is well supplied with accommodation of every sort, plus bars and tavernas.

The international airport at Kavala on the mainland and excellent ferry services ensure that Greeks, Bulgarians and sun-starved Europeans can access the island relatively easily.

  

Ferry terminal of Kavala

We were particularly impressed by the location of a convent that clings to a sea cliff on the southeast coast.

The Convent of Moni Archaggelou has a spectacular seaview

The east coast is significantly less developed and generally has a more upmarket and relaxed feel.

Beaches throughout vary between the unkempt (but nevertheless attractive) and the manicured.

Beach at Psili Ammos where we enjoyed a swim in crystal-clear water

Most of the harbours [skalas] were colourful and pleasant enough, although small and unsuited to cruising yachts, the exception being Skala Kallirakhis on the west coast and Limenaria on the southwest coast. 

Mike was impressed with Limenaria and in particular by the enormous breakwaters, which were set well back off the quays and constructed entirely of huge marble blocks.  Given the amount one can pay for a marble kitchen slab in the UK, the breakwaters would cost a fortune elsewhere!

Marble breakwaters at Limenaria

Kavala

Our 20-mile passage from THASSOS to Kavala, back on the mainland, started as a fast downwind sail and ended, as the wind backed to the north, with a close-hauled beat into a light breeze.

On arrival in Kavala port we were pleasantly surprised to find that the ‘limited facilities for yachts’ (which we had expected from the pilot book’s description) have recently been transformed into excellent pontoon berthing at the well-patronised yacht club ‘marina’ which has an active racing fraternity. The extended breakwater and wave-breaking pontoon now provide excellent shelter.  We were even more impressed when no one wanted to take any money for berthing.

New pontoons at Kavala Yacht Club

Kavala is an important commercial port used by ferries and large fishing boats.  There is a separate commercial harbour which also accommodates oil-rig support vessels. On the crossing from THASSOS, we passed two of the oil rigs that are currently in operation.

Oil rigs off Kavala

The city’s international airport (some distance east) is well served by charter flights in the summer. In the winter one has first to use either an internal flight or a ferry to Athens or Thessaloniki.

Following the assassination of Julius Caesar in AD42, Brutus and Cassius gained control of the area and stationed their fleet in Kavala (then called Neapolis). In the subsequent battle of Philippi, they were pursued and defeated by the ‘avengers’ Antony and Cleopatra, following which they both fell on their swords.

The city’s principal landmark is the aqueduct based on a Roman design which was re-built by the Turks in the sixteenth century.

280m-long Aqueduct running through the city

On the rocky bluff overlooking the city, stands a very well-preserved Byzantine citadel. Within its walls, Mehmet Ali, a rich merchant, virtually ran Kavala in the eighteenth century.  His house is now a museum and 5-star hotel.

Citadel on rocky bluff overlooking the city taken from Yacht Club’s concrete wave-breaking pontoon

 

Having just missed, in Porto Lagos, the huge market that circulates throughout the region, we got it right in Kavala!   By any standards, it was enormous.   You could buy almost anything there.  

Enormous open market held every Saturday in Kavala

Yet more vegetables!

After visiting the market, Helen was inspired to soak dried butter beans and cook the traditional Greek recipe of ‘Big Beans’ – butter beans in a tomato and onion sauce, mopped up with bread.

‘Big Beans’ – a traditional Greek dish

Elevtherón Bay

The large bay of Elevtherón lies only 7 miles south of Kavala.  It has an enormous sandy beach and is a holiday resort for Greeks.

Elevtherón Bay with Manitsas Marine boatyard at the north end of the bay

Our reason for going there was to look at the Manitsas Marine boatyard, which had been recommended to us.   Always useful to know what the options are.  The Yard is located in a well-protected cove at the northeast corner of the bay.

Boatyard in northeast cove of Elevtherón Bay

There we met Stavros, the American Greek owner.  While the boatyard is more ‘compact’, less structured and probably (but not necessarily) has less engineering and electronic skills on site, it is clearly an option.   What we liked was their attitude, which is more flexible and responsive than in Leros.   They freely admitted that if they don’t have the skills on site, they bring them in and they can therefore deal with any problem.  

Approach to Manitsas Marine boatyard in Nea Peramas

For our 37’ boat it would cost 1100€ for up to six months in the yard during the winter and 400€ for up to four months in the summer when the yard is more or less empty.  These prices include lifts in and out and wash-downs.   Less than what we pay in Leros.   

Boatyard seen from town of Nea Peramas

Wooden struts supported most vessels in the yard rather than the metal frames that we are more used to.  Stavros argued that this was because wood copes better with earth tremors than metal frames – although metal frames are available if desired.    (We need to check that out!)

A forest of wooden supports in the boatyard

We moored overnight on the old wooden pontoon in the east side of the cove behind the commercial docks – a very well-protected and comfortable location. 

View of Nea Peramas town from our pontoon on the other side of the cove from the boatyard

Interestingly the pontoon isn’t connected to the land.  We were told that this is intentional – for ‘tax reasons’!  (Presumably it’s considered to be unfinished in Greek tax law.)  Therefore to get ashore it was necessary to pull oneself across the gap in an old dinghy on pre-laid pulleys!

Next morning, we motored back across to the ‘boatyard’s quay’ and moored between two fishing trawlers crewed by Egyptians, two of whom were directed by their skipper to give us a hand with our lines.  Once there we arranged for fuel to be delivered by bowser – which arrived within an hour.

ID moored on boatyard’s quay in front of one of the two trawlers, surrounded by Bulgarian anglers!

THASSOS – Limenaria

After Elevtherón there was nowhere along the mainland coast where we wanted to stay – and we certainly did NOT want to stay in Amphipoleos port since the River Strimon, which runs into the port, is considered to be the most polluted in Greece.  In addition, passage planning was complicated by the fact that one is not legally allowed to stop anywhere on the Akti peninsula itself.   Indeed, one has to keep 500 metres off the coast – unless there is a woman on board when the exclusion zone is extended to 1000 metres!

We therefore decided to split into two what would have been a 90-mile passage from Elevtherón and get to the Gulf of Singitkos by going via the port of Limenaria on the southwest corner of THASSOS.   

The newly rebuilt port of Limenaria viewed from hillside above

During our earlier tour of the island by car, we’d already discovered that Limenaria port had been dramatically improved thanks to a 5.2m€ project funded by the EU.  The project was in the final stages of construction.

Some of the heavy plant and equipment used for the port’s reconstruction

  

Limenaria is the island’s second largest town. It was originally developed in 1900 to house workers for the nearby mines.  Herr Speidel, the owner of the mining company, had his house and company offices in an imposing building overlooking the port.  Mining of zinc, lead and silver continued under different companies until 1962.  

The home and offices of the original mining owner, which overlook the port    

In recent years the town has developed as the centre of the tourist industry in the south of the island on the strength of an excellent climate, good beaches and picturesque villages.   Having said that, it is very empty of tourists at the present time, since we are now officially out of season – yet the weather is still perfect!

Limenaria remains a working town and in consequence it retains an authentic environment not always associated with tourist centres.  

The newly renovated inner fishing harbour.  A major industry in the town      

GOING FORWARD

We now plan to leave Limenaria at 3 a.m. tomorrow to enable us to view Mount Athos and the Akti Peninsula, get around the peninsula, reach our destination in the Gulf of Singitkos – and anchor – in daylight!